Story by Penny Burke, Summer 2021
Nearly everything I know about any one of my ethnic identities is information that I have sought out and taught myself. Truthfully, my cultural heritage (or lack thereof) is a bit of a touchy subject for me. As far as I’m aware, my great grandparents were all American born. With this, my families have assimilated, adapted to American culture, and traded in the traditions of their homeland for white privilege. It saddens me immensely to feel so disconnected from my own cultures. The ethnicity I identify most closely with is my Irish heritage.
Potatoes in particular, are immensely significant to Irish cultural heritage. Though potatoes are actually native to the Andes Mountain range in South America, they became particularly useful in the globalized world, especially in Ireland, where the growing conditions were ideal for a potato-dominant agricultural system. In light of the political state at the time (around 1845) in which Britain ruled over and oppressed Irish farmers and workers, a lack of knowledge about plant biodiversity led to the Great Famine. A “blight” (or fungus) destroyed a potato crop which supported virtually all Irish peoples’ diet, and this event spiraled into a prolonged national disaster worsened by an intentional lack of support by British lords causing one of the largest migrant crises in European history, and the deaths of a quarter of the population. The influence of the Great Famine still lives on in the culture today. The famine symbolized the desire for Irish Nationalists to gain sovereignty and independence from England, and serves as a historical example of colonial genocide, which naturally left its marks on countless generations. While potatoes are still a staple in Ireland, they are revered as a symbol of adaptability, resilience, and strength of the Irish people.
One cultural practice involving potatoes that I’ve always cherished is cooking corned beef, cabbage, potatoes, and carrots as a celebratory meal for St. Patrick’s Day. I have memories of eating this dish on chilly, windy, St. Patrick’s days past at my grandparents’ house on the south side. The meal (plus hefty rounds of drinks for the older family) kept everyone warm as we’d head out to celebrate at the South Side Irish Parade. As I got older, I began to ponder my cultural connections in a deeper and more emotional way. In order to forge the connections that had been lost, I again turned to food. I show my love through acts of service, like feeding people. So, it only seemed natural that I would become re-conneced to my culture by exploring traditional foods. To me, mashed potatoes have always been a pure comfort food, reminiscent of home and holidays. My discovery of Colcannon (Irish mashed potatoes) was crucial in my journey of cultural exploration. This dish, heavy with cream, butter, golden potatoes and cruciferous vegetables of choice (leeks, cabbage, kale) is consoling and adds a depth of flavor and nutrition that regular mashed potatoes simply don’t achieve. Now that I’m 21, I’m able to explore the Irish pub scene in Chicago and try the dishes there, and in many of those potatoes are the star.
For me, although I still struggle with where I stand in my identity as an Irish person, I feel proud knowing that I have access to a crop that is so crucial to the Irish identity and history. It is a conduit of reconnecting to cultural heritage that I have been disconnected from, finding personal enrichment, and spiritual reconnection to my ancestors.